La Sardaigne contribue à la magie qu’opère l’Italie sur tous ses visiteurs.

Accessible par le ciel et la mer, les amoureux de la mer peuvent facilement naviguer entre le port typique et charmant de San Remo et celui d’Arbatax qui accueille les touristes en villégiature venus découvrir la nouvelle province : Ogliastra.

Pour apprécier au mieux les côtes et la campagne en Sardaigne, il faut les découvrir en bateau. Autour de la nouvelle province il y a Isolotto (petite île sauvage) où beaucoup de petits bateaux et de voiliers font halte durant la haute saison. A cette époque la terra firma est vraiment visible. La longue plage de sable qui s’étend en forme de croissant de lune et s’étire de Santa Maria Navarese en Tortoli, traversant les villages de Lotzorai et Girasole. L’arrivée d’un bateau dans le port d’Arbatax est toujours un moment de fête pour ses habitants qui sont très accueillants. Vous serez encore soufflés par les superbes rochers rouges qui donnent à ce lieu un merveilleux arrière-plan. Il est impératif de se munir d’une crème solaire, de lunettes et d’un chapeau de soleil. La chaleur est parfois accablante (surtout entre juin et septembre). Vous avez rendez-vous avec les plages de sable fin bordant une onde pure (à Santa Maria Navarese, Girasole, Porto Frailis, San Gemiliano et Cardedu, les plus visitées ).

La province d’Ogliastra regorge de petites criques, accessibles la plupart du temps seulement par voie de mer. Tortoli, une ville de près de 10 000 habitants, est la capitale de cette nouvelle province. Remplie de petites entreprises, le visiteur bénéficie des mêmes services que dans le reste de l’Europe. Il faut visiter la capitale à pied pour voir les merveilleux ateliers de poterie ainsi que le marché.

Il faut aussi visiter les antiques palais épiscopaux, la cathédrale de Saint Andreas. On trouve aussi au sud des vestiges préhistoriques et, plus modernes, des boutiques comme « Vice Versa » de Roberta Chia et même une bijouterie « Deiana ». De petites places offrent une pause balayée par la brise où vous pourrez déguster les délicieuses glaces locales. Mais il faut aussi s’aventurer au cœur du pays. Plusieurs villages situés dans les collines valent le détour : Perdasdefogu, Ulassai, Lanusei, Osini, Gairo, Arzana, Villegrande, Urzulei, Baunei. Plusieurs villages côtiers ont su garder une véritable authenticité. Parmi les plus beaux l’on trouve : Santa Maria Navarese, Lotzorai, Girasole, Arbatax,Tortoli et Cardedu. La partie sud du golfe d’Orosei est passionnante d’un point de vue archéologique. La province est aussi riche de par sa tradition culturelle et organise de nombreuses fêtes qui réjouissent tous les épicuriens : la Pecorino Sardo, la Bottarga di Cabras, entre autres… On y trouve aussi d’excellents vins comme le Cannonau de Jerzu et le Mirto de Tortoli.

La simplicité, la beauté et le charme du paysage vous enchanteront ainsi que l’accueil chaleureux que vous réserveront ses habitants ; un moment unique à savourer !

Pascal LODDO
www.classe21.com

Ogliastra, the new paradise in Sardinia

Magic Italy, multiple, diversified and authentic Italy. It’s in this framework that Sardinia fits in. Accessible by air or sea. Sea lovers can easily navigate between the typical and charming port of San Remo and that of Arbatax which welcomes holidaying tourists who have come to discover the new province : Ogliastra.

You have to consent to some effort by boat before running the Sardinian coasts and drinking in the magnificent countryside. Around the new province stands the silhouette of Isolotto (little wild island) where lots of small boats and sailing boats, moor in the high season. At that very moment terra firma is clearly visible. The fine sand long beach which offers it’s crescent-moon shape to you and stretches from Santa Maria Navarese in Tortoli, crossing thevillages of Lotzorai and Girasole. The arrival of a boat in the port of Arbatax is a moment for celebration for the locals who are warmly welcoming. You’ll also be blown away by the superb red rocks, which give this port a sumptuous backdrop.

Sun cream, sunglasses and hats are obligatory. The heat is sometimes stifling(Especially between June and September). You have a meeting with the fine sands andthe beaches of clear water (in Santa Maria Navarese, Girasole, Porto Frailis, San Gemiliano and Cardedu being the most popular) that are served up, as the Ogliastra Province is full of wonderful little creeks (Cala Biriola, Cala Ispuligidenie that’s also called Cala Mariolu, Cala Goloritzé or Aguglia) most of the time only accessible by sea. Tortoli a town of around 10,000 inhabitants is the capital of this new province. Stocked with several businesses, one can have access to the same services offered to the rest of Europe here. The capital must be visited on foot in order to admire the magnificent craft potteries as well as the market, which is a pure moment of happiness. Must-sees are also the Episcopal old palace, the ancient Cathedral of Saint Andreas (which has a beautiful baroque façade and a suggestive interior).

To the south of this town the national road runs through a region of pleasant hills that have two tall prehistoric menhirs on the left (in the area you can also found the domus de janas and a giant tomb). Fashion is updated by the remarkable boutiques “Vice Versa” of Roberto Chia or even « bijouterie Deiana ». Several small squares offer you the cool air so often sought in summer where you can leisurely taste the homemade ice cream (of which only Italy has the secret). But nevertheless the visit to Ogliastra doesn’t stop at a simple seaside and beach discovery. On the contrary, you have to dare to venture into the heart of the country.

A good number of villages perched on hills are worth the detour : Perdasdefogu,Ulassai, Lanusei, Osini, Gairo, Arzana,Villagrande, Urzulei, Baunei. Seaside villages are also very typical, a good number of them preserve a large authenticity, so their charm is still intact, concrete being far from having taken hold and there are no complaints at that. Amongst the most beautiful : Santa MariaNavarese, Lotzorai, Girasole, Arbatax, Tortoli, and Cardedu.The province of Ogliastra remains still quiteunknown from the world of modern,cosmopolitan tourism. It is however richand varied if one appreciates its coastalplains with their beautiful beaches, calledthe Tacchi : the imposing “towers” of Brightrock, the remains of ancient high chalkplateaus, carved by water, the red rocks aswell as the Supramonte and the spectacularBaunei coast. It’s also the province at themountainous heart of Barbagia andSardinia with the Gennargentu nationalpark (created to protect the primordialflora and fauna of his little corner ofparadise that is Sardinia. Amongst thenumerous species that are very oftenthreatened by extinction, the famous monkseal has to be mentioned). The southernpart of the Orosei Gulf is of importantecological interest.

Here the extraordinarymarriage of nature, rough and rocky andthe transparent waters of the TyrrhenianSea produces a series of wonders with sheer cliffs over the water and wooded cliffs populated by a large ornithological fauna. Ogliastra is also a province rich in cultural tradition and in the many feasts, which will delight epicureans : the Pecorino Sardo, Bottarga di Cabras, Carciofio Sardo Spinoso, Agnello di Sardegna, Culurgionis, Pistoccu, Carna Arrosta… Viticulture is also a large part of Ogliastra, which produces excellent wines such as : Cannonau de Jerzu and Mirto de Tortoli. Ogliastra is a noble land that can be discovered with simplicity, the charm of its countryside will delight you and the warmth of its inhabitants will make your trip a unique moment.

Pascal LODDO
www.classe21.com